2018年2月最好男士着装 THE BEST DRESSED MEN OF FEBRUARY 201
好吧，颁奖季来到了尾声，我们1下子看到了很多颁奖礼上的着装搭配。好吧，大多数人穿的还是晚礼服。不论是格莱美奖颁奖仪式、英国电影电视艺术奖仪式还是奥斯卡。他们大多数依照格式化穿着，我们看到太多的黑色，1点点的午夜蓝和1个完全白色的大融会（明显Timothée Chalamet先生也不甘示弱），但这些穿搭都没有甚么特别的地方。现在，让我们好好关注1下，特别是那些并没有取得1座奖杯，但理应为他们带来的穿搭风格称赞的男士们吧，2018年2月最好搭配以下。
So here we are, at the end ofawardsseason. Shall we just get that whole business out of the way in one fell swoop? OK th铝厂专用工作服en. People woretuxedos. They wore them at theGrammysand then theBaftasand then theOscars. They played around with the format €€ there was a lot of black on black, a bit of midnight blue and one entirely white ensemble (clearlyMr Timothée Chalametis not one to be outdone) €€ but that’s the long and short of it. Now, let’s move on and pay some attention to a number of men who may not necessarily have found themselves within spitting distance of a golden trophy (and much less won one) this month, but nonetheless deserve to be celebrated for the style and flair they brought to the wintry,Game Of Thrones-worthy proceedings of February 2018.
MR CHIWETEL EJIOFOR
2月26日，Ejiofor在伦敦国家画廊。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Chiwetel Ejioforat the National Gallery, London, 26 February. Photograph by Mr Ian West/PA Images
这是件很棒的西装。不管从那个角度看，它都完善的契合了Ejiofor先生的身体，同时也不会显得过瘦。这主要是设计师品牌1般都会被明星的造型师们各种挑剔。而从色彩看，这类褐灰色的选择是奥妙而有趣的，而暖色调的鞋让整体色调有了反差，特别合适出席1些马会的活动。简言之，我们希望这位英国演员将在这几年中取得1些成功，不管未来几年时尚趋势将会出现甚么反复无常的方向。
This is a wonderfulsuit. At every point, it’s clearly been fitted (or altered) to cleave perfectly to Mr Chiwetel Ejiofor’s body, but at the same time it’s not overly skinny. This can be a problem with the kind of designer suits that are often foisted upon celebrities by their stylists. The colour €€ a sort of browny grey €€is subtle yet interesting, and warmly set off by theshoes, a particularly richly patinated pair ofDerbies. In short, we imagine (and fervently hope) that the British actor will get several wears out of this one, whatever capricious direction fashion may take in the next few years.
MR DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN
2月22日，Douglas Friedma在纽约布鲁克林造船厂。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Douglas Friedman at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, New York, 22 February. Photograph by MYCM/Famous
我们喜欢这类怪癖的风格，1件丝绒的晚礼服搭配1条紧身牛崽裤和1些匡威的Chuck Taylors休闲装。这1定程度上与胡子有关，这让摄影师道格拉斯€€弗里德曼(Douglas Friedman)看上去很有活力。但这也与简单的配色方案有关。请注意，有抱负的红地毯步行者，在闪光灯的照耀下，天鹅绒的丰富质感将会提升全部着装的品质。想必弗里德曼先生知道这1点，这就是为何他会咧着嘴笑。
We like the eccentricity of this look, in which a velvetdinner jacketis worn in a casual way withslim jeansand someConverse Chuck Taylors. It’s definitely partly to do with the moustache, which gives photographer Mr Douglas Friedman a sprightly, knowing look. But it’s also to do with the simplicity of the colour scheme. Take note, aspiringred-carpetwalkers, how the rich texture of thevelvetlifts the whole outfit when illuminated by acameraflash. Presumably Mr Friedman knows this, and that’s why he’s grinning from ear to ear.
MR EMANUELE FARNETI
2月20日，Emanuele Farneti在米兰时装周。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Emanuele Farneti at Milan Fashion Week, 20 February. Photograph by Mr Riccardo Giordano Sicki/IPA/REX/Shutterstock
1般来讲，“时尚”和“防风衣”这两个词很难搭上边，所以你应当充分利用下1个词。这就像这样:这是《Vogue》意大利版的编辑Emanuele Farneti穿着1件厚厚的防风茄克。你觉得怎样?好吗?不管怎样,我们要清楚，这张照片的特别的地方在于，Farneti先生让这件茄克看起来很时兴。在这1点上，我们乃至可以把不斟酌茄克的坚固。他仿佛使用了些魔法成功地将这条绿色外套配上了剪裁考究的裤子和棕色的皮鞋。但是，大概这就是为何他们让他做编辑的缘由，让我们屈服于他的穿着品味。
You don’t often read the words “Vogue” and “anorak” in the same sentence, so you should make the most of reading the next one. Which goes something like this: here is Mr Emanuele Farneti, the editor ofVogueItalia, wearing an anorak. How did you find that? Good? Anyway, let’s be clear. What’s especially special about this photograph is that Mr Farneti makes the anorak look stylish. At this point, we might even put the word “crisp” out there. By what magic alchemy he’s managed to pair this piece of green outerwear with some tailoredtrousersand brownbroguesand carry it off, we don’t know. But, p丽江工作服定做resumably, that’s why they made him editor. We bow down to his sartorial nous.
MR JOSH O’CONNOR
2月17日，Josh O'Connor在伦敦出席英国电影与电视艺术奖提名大会。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Josh O'Connor at the Bafta Nominees’ Party in London, 17 February. Photograph by Mr Paul Treadway/matrixpictures.co.uk
你可能会认为，出现在各种重复商标的背景板之前，这位演员Josh O 'Connor好像在背后拿着两包胶囊咖啡。再仔细些看，原来他是在英国电影与电视艺术奖提名大会上，而这个姿式恰好显示出了他的害臊。不管怎样，他选择了1件时兴但年轻的晚礼服，它取代了传统的衬衫和黑色的领口毛衣。如果他没有出席1个颁奖仪式(或，或许是1个喝咖啡的凌晨)，你就会认为他是1个很有魅力的建筑师，而且他的审美学非常简约。更重要的是，你想要拜托他。我们认为，这身搭配证明如何成功选择1套服装。
You might assume, given the comparative sizing of thelogoson this step-and-repeat backdrop, that actor Mr Josh O’Connor is holding two packets of Caffè Lungo capsules behind his back. But look more closely. He’s at the Baftas, and the pose is merely rising-star bashfulness. No matter. This is a sharp but youthful take on dinner dress, which replaces the customaryshirtwith a black crew-necksweater. If he weren’t clearly attending an awards ceremony(or, perhaps, acoffeemorning), you’d assume he was some hot-shotarchitectwith a rigorously minimal aesthetic. What’s more, you’d want to commission him, which, we think, can only testify to the success of this particular outfit.
MR PATRICK SCHWARZENEGGER
2月8日Patrick Schwarzenegger在纽约街头。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Patrick Schwarzenegger in New York, 8 February. Photograph by GoffPhotos.com
对任何能证明你不能追随时尚潮流，看起来很正常的人，我们会说：“看看Patrick Schwarzenegger先生吧。”看着他，他穿着1双Balenciaga的Speed Socks运动鞋(流行趋势:运动鞋)，1件深蓝色的外套(流行趋势:天鹅绒)和1件宽大的露领毛衣(流行趋势:超大号)，以1种最自然的方式，出现在纽约街头的1个角落里。这实际上是有缘由的，他把1切都控制在1种克制的配色方案和明智的选择量(牛崽裤不太瘦，外套也不太大)。但更重要的是，这位演员/模特让常常情绪化的时尚编辑们会觉得，我们无停止地把流行趋势发布到网上，并没有显得徒劳无功。
To anyone who would attest that you can’t follow fashiontrendsand look normal, we would say, “But look at Mr Patrick Schwarzenegger. Look at him.” Here he is, wearing a pair ofBalenciaga Speed Socks(trend: statementsne哈尔滨工作服绣字akers), a deep-bluecoat(trend: velvet) and a voluminous crew-neck sweater (trend:oversized), and carrying it all off like it’s the most natural thing in the world, moseying round aNew Yorkstreet corner. There’s a reason why it works. He’s kept everything under control via a restrained colour scheme and a judicious selection of volumes (the jeans aren’t too slim, the coat’s not too big). But more importantly, the actor/model has made the often emotional team at MR PORTER feel like we might not just be endlessly sending all this trend stuff out into the void of the internet to no avail.
MR SERGEI POLUNIN
2月13日，Sergei Polunin在纽约Calvin Klein 205W39NYC的2018秋冬秀场。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Sergei Polunin at the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC AW18 show, New York, 13 February. Photograph by Ms Kelly Taub/BFA/REX/Shutterstock
这个月，音乐剧《在城里》(On The Town)以优雅的形象出现，这是今年2月由Calvin Klein 205W39NYC举行的时尚秀的亮点之1，这个品牌也就是几年前的“Calvin Klein”，当时打字的时候还可以挤出更多的咖啡时间。从这个品牌的2018春夏系列中，我们可以看到这是1个完全的视角，我们不会在1场关于Sergei Polunin先生如何费力地将其组装在1起的空想中动身，并对他这样做的独创性感到惊讶，但你必须承认这对他很适合。这是1个很好的例子，展现了拉夫€€西蒙斯的朋克式剪裁是如何让这个品牌的首席设计师冷静下来的。
Pirouetting gracefully onto theOn The Townradar this month, ballet’s foremost bad boy was one of the star attractions of February’s fashion show byCalvin Klein 205W39NYC, a brand that, a couple of years ago, we used to just type up as “Calvin Klein” and have more coffee breaks. Seeing as this is an entire look from the brand’s SS18 collection, we’re not going to set off on a flight of fancy about how Mr Sergei Polunin painstakingly put it together and wonder at his ingenuity in doing so, but you have to admit that it suits him. It’s a wonderful example of just how defiantly cool the brand’s head designerMr Raf Simons’ punkishtailoringcan be.
MR TROYE SIVAN
2月20日峰峰有没有保安工作服，Troy夏季工作服购买申请e Sivan在BBC广播公司。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Troye Sivan at BBC Broadcasting House, London, 20 February. Photograph by Mr Michael Wright/WENN.com
你将会常常看到Troye Sivan的，他是1个非常成功的流行歌手，而且他比你年轻很多。但是，他已知道了什么时候穿1双“rockabillo”风格的休闲鞋，作为1款50年代风格的单色造型的1部份，而且让它同时具有2018年的风格。把你从之前的意识状态觉醒到后1种状态。是的，对这样的搭配，夏季精品工作服我们也是妒忌。
You will be familiar with Mr Troye Sivan as the man who is a hugely successful popstar who is much younger than you. But are you familiar with Mr Troye Sivan as the man who knows how and when to wear a pair of rockabilly-styleloafersas part of a1950s-tingedmonochromelook that also has something of 2018 about it? Consider this your awakening from the former state of consciousness into the latter. And yes, for the record, we are jealous.
MR WES ANDERSON
2月15日Wes Anderson在柏林电影节。图片来源：Mr. Porter
Mr Wes Anderson at the Berlin Film Festival, Grand Hyatt Berlin, 15 February. Photograph by Mr Hubert Boesl/Photoshot
Wes Anderson这身搭配看起来，就像是在Gucci的舒展台上迷路了1样，然后走了，直到撞上了1件蓝色的大东西。几10年来他1直是这样，说到风格，这位导演是1直是领导者，而不是追随者。因此，如果你是那种喜欢走在潮流前面的人，那末你可以从这套服装中得到很多建议。黄色的领带配1件棕绿色的花呢套装?这可能很快就会成为爆款。你有稍微宽松裤脚的7分裤?如果没有，赶在在每一个人都买来之前，赶快去买1条吧。
Mr Wes Andersonlooks, here, like he might have got lost on theGuccirunway and wandered off until he hit some big blue thing. But (minus the blue thing) he’s looked like this for decades. When it comes to style, the director is a leader, not a follower. There are therefore plenty of tips you can glean from this outfit, if you’re the kind of man who likes to be ahead of the curve. A yellowtiewith a browny-greentweedsuit? Likely to be a thing soon. Cropped trousers with a slight flare? Get a pair now, before everyone’s doing it.